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<blockquote data-quote="TDP" data-source="post: 43340" data-attributes="member: 82"><p>Hihihi, nhìn tòan cảnh khu vực nuôi rùa thấy thích thật, rộng rãi, thỏai mái nhưng sao lại nuôi trong chậu nhựa vậy? Nuôi trong chậu nhựa thì làm sao rùa đẻ được? Nó cần môi trường sống gần với thiên nhiên cơ, vì vậy cần cải tạo lại một chút bằng cách làm khung lưới ngăn từng khu vực, trong mỗi khu vực thì thêm khay cát, khay nước để rùa uống và tắm, khay này cần thấp để rùa có thể leo vào, ra được (khỏang 5cm), có thể rải thêm một ít sỏi cho đẹp, môi trường sống thích hợp thì mới có điều kiện để duy trì nòi giống chứ! Khi rùa núi vàng đẻ là thêm một công việc đòi hỏi sự kiên nhẫn nữa đó, vì trứng rùa cần môi trường ẩm, nhiệt độ ổn định và thời gian là 130 - 190 ngày trứng mới nở!</p><p>- Rùa muốn đẻ được thì ít nhất cũng phải nặng khoảng 1 kg trở lên, càng to càng tốt (chiều dài mai cỡ 20cm trở lên)</p><p>- Trước khi đẻ khoảng 2 tháng thì bọn này giao phối với nhau. Nói chung khi đó chúng nó rất ồn ào, con đực đuổi theo con cái và 2 con liên tục kêu gào .</p><p>- Sau đó là quá trình bồi dưỡng: nói chung bọn này chủ yếu ăn thực vật nhưng có côn trùng, giun, dế thì em nó cũng xơi.</p><p>- Trước khi đẻ bọn nó cũng rất ồn ào: bò, chạy lung tung và có dấu hiệu đào bới đất để là ổ đẻ. Lúc ấy có cái chậu lớn đổ cát vào để cho nó đẻ. KHi nào đẻ xong thì bới trứng lên cho vào chậu ấp. Chú ý chỉ di chuyển trứng trong vòng 6h sau khi rùa đẻ vì nếu chuyển trứng muộn thì sẽ làm chết phôi .</p><p>Rùa núi vàng là lòai ăn rau quả, ngòai các lọai rau như xà lách, bắp cải, rau muống, giá sống....ta có thể cho chúng ăn thêm các lọai trái cây. Thỉnh thỏang cũng cần bổ sung chất đạm, khóang bằng cách cho ăn sâu quy (mua ở tiệm chim chừng 2k), cá chép mồi (mua ở tiệm cá cảnh chừng 2k) nhưng cũng cần hạn chế 1 - 2 lần/tháng là đủ. Thêm một cách nữa là cho chúng ăn thêm thức ăn dạng viên của chó, mèo nhưng cần theo dõi phân, nếu thấy khác lạ thì cần ngưng ngay.</p><p> </p><p>Hộp nuôi rùa</p><p> </p><p><img src="http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/5339/img1015sf0.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p> </p><p>Khay để rùa tắm</p><p> </p><p><img src="http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/7434/img1003ck7.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p> </p><p> </p><p>Có vài thông tin, hy vọng giúp ích được cho Huyền Trang:</p><p><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: dimgray"><em>MATING ( Bắt cặp ) : Male Elongated tortoises engage in very aggressive courtship behavior which can result in injury to the female if a large enough habitat is not provided. Male aggression against other males can also be very damaging and it is suggested that only one male be housed in an enclosure. In courtship, the male engages in ramming behavior as well as vigorous biting about the head, neck and front legs of the female. The male loudly vocalizes during mating, emitting a harsh, raspy sound while exhaling. </em></span></span></p><p> </p><p><em><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: dimgray">EGG LAYING ( Đẻ trứng ) : A female Elongated tortoise preparing to nest becomes restless, often attempting to escape the enclosure. While constantly striding about the habitat, she will stop and sniff the earth from time to time as she selects a spot. Generally, the spot chosen is damp and free of vegetation. Once she has found a suitable spot, she digs a flask shaped nest 15 - 20 centimeters deep with her back legs. If the soil is too hard and dry, she will wet the spot by emptying her bladder. She then proceeds to lay a clutch of <strong>2-4 eggs in the excavated nest</strong>, replaces the soil with her back legs and flattens the spot with her plastron. Elongated tortoises typically lay 3 clutches a season in captivity. </span></span></em></p><p> </p><p><em><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: dimgray">HATCHING ( Ấp nở ) : The eggs of the Elongated tortoise are huge compared to most other species measuring 50 X 40 mm, are hard-shelled and weigh 42 - 46 grams. There is a strong indication of diapause in this species with clutches incubated <strong>28 degrees C</strong> taking from<strong> 130 - 190 </strong>days to hatch. Increasing the temperature frequently results in doubled vertebral scutes. The newly hatched young are 50 - 55 mm SCL and weigh 30 - 35 grams.</span></span></em></p><p style="text-align: right"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: dimgray">Trích từ web </span><a href="http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/elongatacare.htm" target="_blank"><span style="color: dimgray">http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/elongatacare.htm</span></a></span></span></p><p></p><p> </p><p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">Còn đây là cách chăm sóc rùa con:</span></span></span></span></p><p></p><p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><strong><span style="color: black">Indotestudo elongata Hatchling Care Sheet</span></strong></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><strong><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e">By Darrell Senneke </span></span></strong></span></span></span></p> <p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">This is my basic indoor care system for baby Indotestudo elongata. I should stress that I keep groups of clutch mates together so they have a bit more room than is typical for individual hatchlings. I would use at least a 30 inch long habitat for an individual, though. This primarily would be to allow a good temperature gradient which I think is important to any chelonians indoors. </span></span></span></span><span style="color: #283a5e"></span></p> <p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">I maintain mine in a tank which measures 36 inches by 24 inches. Under approximately the front right hand one third of the tank I have an under tank heater and an basking incandescent spotlight of 75 watts placed to shine upon the substrate in that area. This allows for a distinct temperature gradient from the high in the right front corner to the low in the back left corner where the hide box is located. I also have a double fluorescent fixture that runs the length of the habitat. This fixture has a full spectrum fluorescent bulb in it. The lights are on a timer, providing about 14 hours of daylight. Keeping two temperature / humidity gauges, one at each end of the tank, will help you monitor the micro climate. </span></span></span></span></p><p><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"></span></span></p><p> <span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"></span></span></p><p><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">As a substrate I use a combination of (by volume) 1/3 leaf litter, 1/3 sphagnum moss (The coarse type used by florists, not the type used in gardens) and 1/3 topsoil (potting soil would be ok here as well but it is very important that there be NO perlite in the soil mix as they will eat it). The substrate is about 1 to 2 inches deep throughout the habitat. I mist the substrate daily with a garden sprayer as well as using a humidity engine feeding into their hide box. I spray the rear part of the habitat more heavily than the front to provide a dampness gradient from front to back to contrast with the temperature gradient from right to left. (Trick of the trade: watch where the tortoise hangs out in this type of setup and you will be able to fine tune the habitat to it.) </span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">The humidity engine is simply a gas sparge bottle hooked up to an aquarium pump. The bottle is filled with water and the outlet tube is put through a hole in the roof of the hide box, in effect duplicating a tortoise "pad" or "scrape" micro climate. </span></span></p></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">As a water dish I use a flowerpot saucer (the shallowest that I could find), about 10 inches across. This is kept filled and cleaned as necessary. I use smaller saucer of the same type as a food dish. If you can find glazed saucers, they work a tad better by virtue of being easier to clean. If you do find some that are glazed, soak them in a vinegar solution, then a water solution for a day to ensure removal of any surface heavy metals in the glaze. I use standard terra cotta saucers. </span></span></p><p></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">I soak the babies every morning in very shallow, slightly above room temperature water as part of my daily care. This ensures that they stay hydrated and also seems to get them moving and triggers defecation. (Trick of the trade number 2 here: The fact that they defecate during their bath means less cleanup in the habitat and longer between large scale cleanings). After their soak I put them back into the habitat and feed them. After they are a year or so old I reduce the soaks to once every three or four days, then even further as they age. </span></span></p></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">I know I get a bit of disagreement with my feeding schedule, but I feed babies once every day. It is my view that they are small and the volume to surface ratio is much lower than adults, hence feeding more often in my mind is a necessity. In fact, for the first two months of life I occasionally feed my babies twice a day. Once they are a few months old an occasional missed day or two every week or so won't hurt them, though. Once over a year old I feed lighter meals while indoors, and when outdoors in the pens they are fed very little supplemental food. </span></span></p></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">I feed as varied a mixture of foods as possible. Typically during winter I would use a finely chopped mix of (in order of volume) endive, romaine, escarole, kale, ground timothy hay and non citrus fruit. I make a large enough batch of mix to last 4 or 5 days. This eases the work load considerably and the mix keeps well under refrigeration. The reason I finely chop it is because in the wild a tortoise is biting off pieces of plants against the resistance of roots. In captivity they don't have this resistance and tend to get larger pieces. To help duplicate the wild I chop finely. As the weather warms I replace as much store produce as possible with dandelions, clover, plantain, young grape leaves and young mulberry leaves. I no longer feed any supplemental protein though the hatchlings are quite adept at tracking down worms and slugs in their pens. </span></span></p></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">Cuttlebone is constantly available to the tortoises at all times </span></span></p></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">Special note: If you can find napolitoes, (cactus pads) they are very good for them and they LOVE them. be certain to remove the glochids (spines) before feeding </span></span></p></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">To all the above food I add a sprinkling of calcium supplement with D3 (I think all brands of these are pretty much the same as long as you make sure they are not a calcium phosphate base.) </span></span></p></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><span style="color: #283a5e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">I also offer a small dish of dampened artificial tortoise food every few days and have been experimenting with adding some powdered artificial food to the salad mix. The reason for this is to acclimate them to this food in case fresh greens are not available.</span></span></p><p></span><p style="text-align: left"></p><p></span><p style="text-align: left"></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TDP, post: 43340, member: 82"] Hihihi, nhìn tòan cảnh khu vực nuôi rùa thấy thích thật, rộng rãi, thỏai mái nhưng sao lại nuôi trong chậu nhựa vậy? Nuôi trong chậu nhựa thì làm sao rùa đẻ được? Nó cần môi trường sống gần với thiên nhiên cơ, vì vậy cần cải tạo lại một chút bằng cách làm khung lưới ngăn từng khu vực, trong mỗi khu vực thì thêm khay cát, khay nước để rùa uống và tắm, khay này cần thấp để rùa có thể leo vào, ra được (khỏang 5cm), có thể rải thêm một ít sỏi cho đẹp, môi trường sống thích hợp thì mới có điều kiện để duy trì nòi giống chứ! Khi rùa núi vàng đẻ là thêm một công việc đòi hỏi sự kiên nhẫn nữa đó, vì trứng rùa cần môi trường ẩm, nhiệt độ ổn định và thời gian là 130 - 190 ngày trứng mới nở! - Rùa muốn đẻ được thì ít nhất cũng phải nặng khoảng 1 kg trở lên, càng to càng tốt (chiều dài mai cỡ 20cm trở lên) - Trước khi đẻ khoảng 2 tháng thì bọn này giao phối với nhau. Nói chung khi đó chúng nó rất ồn ào, con đực đuổi theo con cái và 2 con liên tục kêu gào . - Sau đó là quá trình bồi dưỡng: nói chung bọn này chủ yếu ăn thực vật nhưng có côn trùng, giun, dế thì em nó cũng xơi. - Trước khi đẻ bọn nó cũng rất ồn ào: bò, chạy lung tung và có dấu hiệu đào bới đất để là ổ đẻ. Lúc ấy có cái chậu lớn đổ cát vào để cho nó đẻ. KHi nào đẻ xong thì bới trứng lên cho vào chậu ấp. Chú ý chỉ di chuyển trứng trong vòng 6h sau khi rùa đẻ vì nếu chuyển trứng muộn thì sẽ làm chết phôi . Rùa núi vàng là lòai ăn rau quả, ngòai các lọai rau như xà lách, bắp cải, rau muống, giá sống....ta có thể cho chúng ăn thêm các lọai trái cây. Thỉnh thỏang cũng cần bổ sung chất đạm, khóang bằng cách cho ăn sâu quy (mua ở tiệm chim chừng 2k), cá chép mồi (mua ở tiệm cá cảnh chừng 2k) nhưng cũng cần hạn chế 1 - 2 lần/tháng là đủ. Thêm một cách nữa là cho chúng ăn thêm thức ăn dạng viên của chó, mèo nhưng cần theo dõi phân, nếu thấy khác lạ thì cần ngưng ngay. Hộp nuôi rùa [IMG]http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/5339/img1015sf0.jpg[/IMG] Khay để rùa tắm [IMG]http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/7434/img1003ck7.jpg[/IMG] Có vài thông tin, hy vọng giúp ích được cho Huyền Trang: [FONT=Tahoma][COLOR=dimgray][I]MATING ( Bắt cặp ) : Male Elongated tortoises engage in very aggressive courtship behavior which can result in injury to the female if a large enough habitat is not provided. Male aggression against other males can also be very damaging and it is suggested that only one male be housed in an enclosure. In courtship, the male engages in ramming behavior as well as vigorous biting about the head, neck and front legs of the female. The male loudly vocalizes during mating, emitting a harsh, raspy sound while exhaling. [/I][/COLOR][/FONT] [I][FONT=Tahoma][COLOR=dimgray]EGG LAYING ( Đẻ trứng ) : A female Elongated tortoise preparing to nest becomes restless, often attempting to escape the enclosure. While constantly striding about the habitat, she will stop and sniff the earth from time to time as she selects a spot. Generally, the spot chosen is damp and free of vegetation. Once she has found a suitable spot, she digs a flask shaped nest 15 - 20 centimeters deep with her back legs. If the soil is too hard and dry, she will wet the spot by emptying her bladder. She then proceeds to lay a clutch of [B]2-4 eggs in the excavated nest[/B], replaces the soil with her back legs and flattens the spot with her plastron. Elongated tortoises typically lay 3 clutches a season in captivity. [/COLOR][/FONT][/I] [I][FONT=Tahoma][COLOR=dimgray]HATCHING ( Ấp nở ) : The eggs of the Elongated tortoise are huge compared to most other species measuring 50 X 40 mm, are hard-shelled and weigh 42 - 46 grams. There is a strong indication of diapause in this species with clutches incubated [B]28 degrees C[/B] taking from[B] 130 - 190 [/B]days to hatch. Increasing the temperature frequently results in doubled vertebral scutes. The newly hatched young are 50 - 55 mm SCL and weigh 30 - 35 grams.[/COLOR][/FONT][/I] [RIGHT][FONT=Tahoma][FONT=Tahoma][COLOR=dimgray]Trích từ web [/COLOR][URL="http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/elongatacare.htm"][COLOR=dimgray]http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/elongatacare.htm[/COLOR][/URL][/FONT][/FONT][/RIGHT] [LEFT][COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma][COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma]Còn đây là cách chăm sóc rùa con:[/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR][/LEFT] [LEFT][COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma][COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma][B][COLOR=black]Indotestudo elongata Hatchling Care Sheet[/COLOR][/B][/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma][COLOR=#283a5e][B][FONT=Tahoma][COLOR=#283a5e]By Darrell Senneke [/COLOR][/FONT][/B][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma][COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma]This is my basic indoor care system for baby Indotestudo elongata. I should stress that I keep groups of clutch mates together so they have a bit more room than is typical for individual hatchlings. I would use at least a 30 inch long habitat for an individual, though. This primarily would be to allow a good temperature gradient which I think is important to any chelonians indoors. [/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=#283a5e] [FONT=Tahoma][COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma]I maintain mine in a tank which measures 36 inches by 24 inches. Under approximately the front right hand one third of the tank I have an under tank heater and an basking incandescent spotlight of 75 watts placed to shine upon the substrate in that area. This allows for a distinct temperature gradient from the high in the right front corner to the low in the back left corner where the hide box is located. I also have a double fluorescent fixture that runs the length of the habitat. This fixture has a full spectrum fluorescent bulb in it. The lights are on a timer, providing about 14 hours of daylight. Keeping two temperature / humidity gauges, one at each end of the tank, will help you monitor the micro climate. [/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][FONT=Tahoma][/FONT][/COLOR][/LEFT][COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma] [COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma]As a substrate I use a combination of (by volume) 1/3 leaf litter, 1/3 sphagnum moss (The coarse type used by florists, not the type used in gardens) and 1/3 topsoil (potting soil would be ok here as well but it is very important that there be NO perlite in the soil mix as they will eat it). The substrate is about 1 to 2 inches deep throughout the habitat. I mist the substrate daily with a garden sprayer as well as using a humidity engine feeding into their hide box. I spray the rear part of the habitat more heavily than the front to provide a dampness gradient from front to back to contrast with the temperature gradient from right to left. (Trick of the trade: watch where the tortoise hangs out in this type of setup and you will be able to fine tune the habitat to it.) [/FONT][/COLOR] [LEFT][COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma]The humidity engine is simply a gas sparge bottle hooked up to an aquarium pump. The bottle is filled with water and the outlet tube is put through a hole in the roof of the hide box, in effect duplicating a tortoise "pad" or "scrape" micro climate. [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma]As a water dish I use a flowerpot saucer (the shallowest that I could find), about 10 inches across. This is kept filled and cleaned as necessary. I use smaller saucer of the same type as a food dish. If you can find glazed saucers, they work a tad better by virtue of being easier to clean. If you do find some that are glazed, soak them in a vinegar solution, then a water solution for a day to ensure removal of any surface heavy metals in the glaze. I use standard terra cotta saucers. [/FONT][/COLOR][/LEFT] [LEFT][COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma]I soak the babies every morning in very shallow, slightly above room temperature water as part of my daily care. This ensures that they stay hydrated and also seems to get them moving and triggers defecation. (Trick of the trade number 2 here: The fact that they defecate during their bath means less cleanup in the habitat and longer between large scale cleanings). After their soak I put them back into the habitat and feed them. After they are a year or so old I reduce the soaks to once every three or four days, then even further as they age. [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma]I know I get a bit of disagreement with my feeding schedule, but I feed babies once every day. It is my view that they are small and the volume to surface ratio is much lower than adults, hence feeding more often in my mind is a necessity. In fact, for the first two months of life I occasionally feed my babies twice a day. Once they are a few months old an occasional missed day or two every week or so won't hurt them, though. Once over a year old I feed lighter meals while indoors, and when outdoors in the pens they are fed very little supplemental food. [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma]I feed as varied a mixture of foods as possible. Typically during winter I would use a finely chopped mix of (in order of volume) endive, romaine, escarole, kale, ground timothy hay and non citrus fruit. I make a large enough batch of mix to last 4 or 5 days. This eases the work load considerably and the mix keeps well under refrigeration. The reason I finely chop it is because in the wild a tortoise is biting off pieces of plants against the resistance of roots. In captivity they don't have this resistance and tend to get larger pieces. To help duplicate the wild I chop finely. As the weather warms I replace as much store produce as possible with dandelions, clover, plantain, young grape leaves and young mulberry leaves. I no longer feed any supplemental protein though the hatchlings are quite adept at tracking down worms and slugs in their pens. [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma]Cuttlebone is constantly available to the tortoises at all times [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma]Special note: If you can find napolitoes, (cactus pads) they are very good for them and they LOVE them. be certain to remove the glochids (spines) before feeding [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma]To all the above food I add a sprinkling of calcium supplement with D3 (I think all brands of these are pretty much the same as long as you make sure they are not a calcium phosphate base.) [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#283a5e][FONT=Tahoma]I also offer a small dish of dampened artificial tortoise food every few days and have been experimenting with adding some powdered artificial food to the salad mix. The reason for this is to acclimate them to this food in case fresh greens are not available.[/FONT][/COLOR][/LEFT][/FONT][LEFT][/left][/COLOR][LEFT][/LEFT] [/QUOTE]
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